The Home Run

Leaving Cape Town, I  decided to wander up Route 62, aka the Garden Route, an incredibly scenic drive along the Eastern coast and then up towards the Transkei.  Sleepy villages, amazing coastal scenery and even, albeit a short detour away, intensive Ostrich farming. Along with its numerous lakes and mountain ranges, the landscape also features indigenous forests, amber-coloured rivers and fields of fynbos, the indigenous vegetation.  This natural wonderland is home many bird and wildlife species and offers a plethora of leisure options and adventure activities.

I stopped off in the ostrich capital of the world. Somewhat isolated, Oudtshoorn preserves a 19th century gold rush feel: even though in this case, the gold came from then ultra fashionable ostrich feathers. Comfortably endowed with solid Dutch influenced architecture and resolutely Afrikaans street names, the town is a fascinating glimpse into the past.

Knysna Harbour

Visits to the coastal resorts of Wilderness, Knysna and Plettenberg Bay were to follow. Each packed with character, somewhat evocative of British resort of perhaps 40 years ago although with a distinct South African flavour. 

From the Garden Route, I followed the main N2 highway, which runs all the way up to Ermelo in the Province of Mpumalanga. The road passes through the Transkei, a former 'Homeland', now part of the Eastern Cape province. A "must see "here is the Wild Coast, home to scattered communities of Xhosa and little else. The scenery is breathtaking and the welcome sincere and hearty. 

Coffee Bay is named for a ship carrying coffee beans which came ashore in the late 19th century, whilst navigating the treacherous waters of the Wild Coast. It would be hard to find a more perfect spot. Surfing, hiking, photo opportunities, and a couple of top class backpacker lodges to choose from. Apart the wonderful coastal hikes, my abiding memory is laying in bed, drifting off to sleep to the sound of the hypnotic Bomvu drums shivering across the river.

The Wild Coast near Coffee Bay

From the Transkei, my way lay towards Johannesburg and its airport, bringing me rather neatly back to where my odyssey had begun in September the previous year.

As it stands, the country is by no means the finished product. To put things in perspective, the Union of South Africa was achieved in 1910 and democracy introduced in 1994.  By any standards, this is still a young and developing nation.  There are still rampant inequalities to address and these are by no means confined to the black population. 

South Africa also faces a potential battle to preserve its status as the economic powerhouse of Africa.  Nigeria is waiting in the wings and is a credible challenger. perhaps provided that it can diversify its economy and embrace the non-oil sector. 

I was sad to leave this amazing country. Hospitality is the hallmark of South Africa, along with a deep seated and wholly understandable national pride, whatever brand of political opinion its people hold.

Despite covering thousands of Kilometres, I have only scratched the surface of this wonderful and diverse land. What I have seen has inspired me to such an extent that I am already planning a return.  Thank you South Africa and of course, the Kingdom of Swaziland.

The Mother City

With an eclectic mix of architecture, good planning, Table Mountain as a backdrop, superb beaches and a beautiful hinterland: Cape Town is well qualified to be South Africa's world city.  The streets are clean and safe, as is the efficient public transport network.  The city, unlike the other mega conurbations in S.A., is run by the opposition, Democratic Alliance. Politics are beyond the scope of this blog, but the way that Cape Town operates is in stark contrast to Joburg or Durban. The city is well supplied with museums, art galleries and concert venues.  It also has several thriving music scenes, jazz cafes and cinemas.

Cape Town City Hall with Table Mountain in the background

It was an absolute pleasure to stroll through the city centre, hike through the suburbs to the foot of Table Mountain and even venture out at night without need for a taxi. There is something for everyone in this fabulous place. 

Most visitors make a beeline for Table Mountain. It is possible to walk up to its 1085 meter summit, but the majority opt for the cable-way. During the ride, the floors of the cars turn through 360 degrees, giving excellent photo opportunities.  All very well on a clear day, but Cape weather can change in minutes. The mountain has an interesting but annoying habit of putting on its tablecloth, a cap of cloud which masks the wonderful views.  

The cable-way operators are scrupulously fair in alerting potential mountaineers to weather changes. Down at the base station, a beacon light revolves to warn of unfavourable conditions higher up. Sadly, I spent more time admiring this system than the view. Just as I was about to buy my ticket, the weather closed in.  Fortunately, the best part of the city bowl; Cape Town lies within an extinct volcano crater, along with the harbour, is visible from the base station.

Groot Constantia Monor House

I used the open top sightseeing buses to get around. 18 Euros buys a two day pass, enabling hop on/off city tours, a canal boat trip, plus an extended ride out into the countryside and back along the beaches of Camps Bay and Seapoint.  The on-board commentary is interesting, matching info with relevant scenery by GPS, although the background music can become tedious. The service also stop off near Groot Constantia, the Cape's oldest winery. Tours to the vineyards are available, via a complimentary shuttle bus system.  

For those with a love of the seaside, the Simonstown rail line runs around False Bay, past coastal resorts and sandy beaches. All very evocative for anyone who remembers the English seaside of 40 years ago.  At Simonstown itself, a short hike leads to Boulder Beach, home to a thriving colony of African Penguins.

The railway  runs right on the shoreline

Cape Town is a must see for anyone visiting South Africa. It is slightly more expensive than the rest of the country, but in my opinion, well worth the extra.  The city has an international airport and is well served by internal flights from the major destinations. Accommodation prices start from around €9 in a comfortable backpackers. 

More info here http://www.capetown.travel/