Fields of Gold

The road between Swaziland and Johannesburg is by no means the most scenic in Africa. Once Swaziland is left behind, the trek across to the city of gold passes through seemingly never ending high veld. There are two potential stops, one at the country town of Carolina, consisting of a main road, crossed with the odd street housing mostly Afrikaner families and a substantial township, where most of the black citizens still live.

The other and to my mind, infinitely more alluring way-point is at the highway service area of Appaloosa. The Spur restaurant, a tacky Wild West themed steak and burger-house chain, found all over South Africa; has a viewing deck. To my delight, I found that it overlooks a large fenced area around a water hole, home to several species of larger wildlife, including ostrich, white rhinos, Cape buffalo and zebra. Granted, these are not animals in the wild, but to see two of the so called big five, buffalo and rhino, the others being elephant, lion and leopard; is extremely gratifying and breaks up an otherwise tedious journey.

Although I had visited downtown Joburg, this particular trip was made to help a friend buy a car and involved long schlepps through the outer reaches. As black Africans have streamed into the formerly white dominated inner suburbs, so the white population has moved northwards. The city is huge geographically and will soon form a mega conurbation with Pretoria, some 50Km to the north, when the ever expanding suburbs finally meet. Driving there involves constant vigilance, locked doors at all times and no stopping unless absolutely necessary. This includes red traffic signals when there is no opposing traffic, as these areas are prime hunting grounds for car jackers.

Given Joburg's high crime rate, it is easy to become paranoid. Nevertheless, potential tourists are often put off from visiting South Africa as the city is for many, the gateway to the country. Swaziland by contrast, is a relative haven of safety and tranquility. There is crime, but it is possible to wander relaxedly through the cities of Mbabane or Manzini by day and in company, even during the hours of darkness. 

Swaziland did not experience apartheid and has never had a civil war. Rioting, looting and civil unrest are virtually unknown. The kingdom achieved Independence from Britain in 1968 and is in effect an absolute monarchy, currently ruled over by the British educated, King Mswati the third. Although there is some political unrest, the system, underpinned by nationalism and tradition works reasonably well. However, relations with the neighbouring African National Congress government of South Africa are strained at times. As tiny Swaziland is almost completely dependent upon its huge neighbour, it seems almost inevitable that external pressure will be brought to bear to introduce at least a semblance of multi-party democracy.

Back from the Future

Swaziland really doesn't need a Formula 1 Grand Prix. Just take a Kombi minbus along the main road to Mbabane and be part of the high speed action yourself. Luckily, the roads are in very good repair and quite wide. Catch the right Kombi and not only do you get a swift ride to destination, but also a blast of African pop music, with the volume and bass cranked right up. Fares start at about 40c, enough to ride at least 10Km.

With a 70s themed party to attend that evening, I had to use the service in order to do a little shopping at the local mall. Very swish, featuring many of the South African chainstore big players, like Clicks, a kind of funky Superdrug, Pick and Pay, something akin to Tesco and of course, good old Woolworths. There is also a four screen cinema, some pubs and restaurants. Not a bad haul for what is in effect, a wide place in the road. Sadly, I couldn't find any 70s clothing, although the suits on offer in Woolworths window came close. 

The party was held at Sundowners, a backpacker lodge near the village of Malkerns. Having by now had a little experience of these facilities, I expected standards to be high. For example, there are powerful showers, super clean bathrooms, well equipped communal kitchens, often a pool and of course a bar. Sundowners has all the above and more. It is more akin to being a guest in someone's home. 

I had agreed to be DJ for the party. Why do people immediately associate me with the 70s? People from all around the area and of all races turned up in their costumes. Much is made of the decade which fashion forgot, but I was able to do a 2 hour set, using only music from that era. Thanks to Chic et al.

What impressed me the most was the easy and comfortable way in which guests of all hues mixed. Granted, many of the younger ones had been at school together, but there is a level of tolerance and acceptance in Swaziland that I have never seen anywhere else.

I can't remember the 70s having been so much fun, but on the downside, I am about to set off on a 15Km hike in order not to let the calories I engulfed become a permanent fixture.

Rock around the Croc at Mlilwane Nature Reserve, Swaziland

Sondzela Backpacker Lodge. Possibly the best budget accommodation I have ever stayed in. From my arrival the staff went out of their way to help. Special mention to Gertrude the warden the rangers and the supporting cast of wildlife. All situated within a working wildlife reserve and absolutely no barriers between you and them.  Mlilwane is my idea of heaven.

Lots of red soil and gorgeous rolling country a bit like a mountainous, sub-tropical Devon but without the iffy ice creams, pretend pasties and hordes of grockles. I doubt though, whether Paignton Zoo could have drummed up a free range posse of Burchell's Zebra to follow me on my hike or the friendly warthog who appeared to take quite a shine to me. I only hope it wasn't her we ate at the braai last evening. Warthog is a speciality here after all.

With temperatures hovering around the 30c mark by day and low humidity, this is the ideal October destination.  Easy walking, (with plenty of water),  paths and trails are well marked. Reputedly, there are a few sociopathic ostrich to beware of, but they must have been on short time when I walked through because I din't see any sign of them.  The larger animals, mostly antelope and zebra are constant companions. Curious, tame and very photogenic.

Hippos are another thing. Down at their lake, there are warning signs everywhere. By day. they are reasonably placid if left alone, but at night it's party time and they come out of the wet stuff to forage up to 8Km in search of food.  Hippos have killed more humans than all the lions of Africa put together, so it is wise to treat them with respect and stay in camp after dusk.

As for the crocs, well get too close and you could be invited to a game of terminal snap. Not the best way to end a trip to Swaziland. They are killers and just between us, I think they know they are protected.  I saw a couple of monsters.  Legend has it that the first European "boss" in Swaziland disappeared without trace. Years later, a man eating croc was trapped and killed.  In its stomach was found said boss's signet ring.

This is a lovely, serene and friendly country, but it has terrible poverty and a staggeringly high rate of HIV infection.  Education as always appears to be the key.  I am tempted to put Mozambique on hold and see if I can contribute in some way. A few weeks in this beautiful place would be no hardship at all.

I don't really have a plan. At some point, I shall be dropping down to Port Elizabeth to see an old mate, but apart from that...

African TV

By public transport, there are two ways to reach the Independent Kingdom of Swaziland from Joburg. The luxury bus costs around 35 Euros and my old friend the Minibus 13. Both take around 4 hours for the 370Km journey, but the minibuses once again, are used almost exclusively by the black community.

It's a little cramped, but very hospitable and lots of fun. Swazi people ae gentle, friendly and immensely proud of their tiny country. I very soon found out why. Arriving at the border, things were efficient and impersonal on the South African side, but the Swazi immigration officer seemed positively pleased to see me. I was given a colour brochure, packed with maps, accommodation lists and photos of wildlife. From this, I was able chose the Sondzela backpacker lodge, situated inside the Mlilwane nature reserve.

A short hop later and I was decanted in the diminutive capital Mbabane. Almost immediately I was approached by a taxi driver. Scam alert flashed into action, but this guy offered me his cell phone to call the lodge I had chosen and then agreed to take me the 35Km for a paltry 15 Euros.

Swaziland is only a few KM wide and approximately 150KM long. It has 3 distinct climatic zones, the Highveld, similar to Joburg, Middleveld, where October temperatures can reach 32c and the lowlands, which are sub tropical. This landlocked country is mountainous, but in a gentle rather rgreen and rolling way. Milwane is in the Middleveld and is a refuge for Warthogs, Zebra, several different kinds of antelope, Wildebeest, Monkeys, Hippos and Crocodiles.

The backpackers lodge costs about 8 Euro per night, dinner is less than 4 Euros and beers,50 cents a pop from the bar. African nights can be cold at his time of year, so a huge fire is lit, chairs drawn up around and the dinner, announced by drum beats, is served outside in African style, straight from the pot onto a bed of mealie porridge. Immense portions, exotic vegetables, grills, stews, salads and always coleslaw.

As the fire heats up, beers appear and there is lots of chilled chat with perhaps some music. Southern Africans are all pyromaniacs. There is nothing they love better than a braai, (barbie), and a fire. Soon the blaze was reaching November 5th proportions, stoked by an gleeful ranger, armed with a pump action shotgun, (in case of marauding hippos), who gleefully added to the conflagration. Meanwhile, the Swazi wildlife was cranking up its African night sounds repetoire  to max.

A South African couple, Sam and Rita passed me a beer, invited me to pull up a chair nearer the fire and we watched as the blaze died down to expose the core of the fire My new friends lost no time in putting empty Castle bottles into its heart. 10 minutes later, the semi melted glass was molded into ashtrays, candle holders and plain weird sculptures. Apparently a popular pass time whilst watching African TV, in other words, a flickering fire.