Sondzela Backpacker Lodge. Possibly the best budget accommodation I have ever stayed in. From my arrival the staff went out of their way to help. Special mention to Gertrude the warden the rangers and the supporting cast of wildlife. All situated within a working wildlife reserve and absolutely no barriers between you and them. Mlilwane is my idea of heaven.
Lots of red soil and gorgeous rolling country a bit like a mountainous, sub-tropical Devon but without the iffy ice creams, pretend pasties and hordes of grockles. I doubt though, whether Paignton Zoo could have drummed up a free range posse of Burchell's Zebra to follow me on my hike or the friendly warthog who appeared to take quite a shine to me. I only hope it wasn't her we ate at the braai last evening. Warthog is a speciality here after all.
With temperatures hovering around the 30c mark by day and low humidity, this is the ideal October destination. Easy walking, (with plenty of water), paths and trails are well marked. Reputedly, there are a few sociopathic ostrich to beware of, but they must have been on short time when I walked through because I din't see any sign of them. The larger animals, mostly antelope and zebra are constant companions. Curious, tame and very photogenic.
Hippos are another thing. Down at their lake, there are warning signs everywhere. By day. they are reasonably placid if left alone, but at night it's party time and they come out of the wet stuff to forage up to 8Km in search of food. Hippos have killed more humans than all the lions of Africa put together, so it is wise to treat them with respect and stay in camp after dusk.
As for the crocs, well get too close and you could be invited to a game of terminal snap. Not the best way to end a trip to Swaziland. They are killers and just between us, I think they know they are protected. I saw a couple of monsters. Legend has it that the first European "boss" in Swaziland disappeared without trace. Years later, a man eating croc was trapped and killed. In its stomach was found said boss's signet ring.
This is a lovely, serene and friendly country, but it has terrible poverty and a staggeringly high rate of HIV infection. Education as always appears to be the key. I am tempted to put Mozambique on hold and see if I can contribute in some way. A few weeks in this beautiful place would be no hardship at all.
I don't really have a plan. At some point, I shall be dropping down to Port Elizabeth to see an old mate, but apart from that...
